It was early days of my career when my manager visited Sri Lanka with his family and complimented the place. Sri Lanka is known to be an economical yet beautiful place offering most of the common attractions like Jungles, Hills, and Beaches making it a popular tourist attraction.
So, I knew about it and many times discussed within family to make it our next destination, unfortunately when it is compared with central/west European countries, Turkey or North America, it becomes difficult to make a strong case.
The man who made this trip forcefully possible for me is Rizad (El Macho for my ease 🙂 – my Sri Lankan colleague living at the eastern corner – the town of Akkaraipattu. He knows very well about my travel interest and this time he convinced me to book my ticket for at least a week while he is there on his annual vacations.
There was not much for planning since I was invited by a local guy who – despite many attempts – was not ready to reveal the plan, may be he didn’t have one or he didn’t have control over planning in presence of his family 😉
For me, it was difficult as Schools are open here in UAE and leaving family behind for a week is something I was not feeling happy about. However my better half encouraged me to avail this opportunity respecting my inner greed of travelling new places
Hence, here I am – at the Colombo Airport – early morning of 6th May 2017 – excited and puzzled what comes ahead.
Some Quick Facts:
Sri Lanka was earlier known as “Ceylon” till 1972, got independence in 1948 from United Kingdom. It is a tropical island close to the equator. It is the last piece of land in South Asia forming a unique shape making it truly a pearl. Majority is Buddhist speaking Sinhala (74%), then Tamil population of other faiths (18%) Hindus, Muslims, and Christians mainly. Total population is 21.2 million.
Visa:
Visa process is very simple. Online visa can be applied using the website takes only 2-3 days to receive approval that you must carry when approaching immigration counter. The visa fee is very nominal ($20) for SAARC member countries and little more ($35) for other countries. Also a form shall be submitted along with visa approval to specify your trip details, so make sure you carry a pen as most of the time you will not find it at the desk designated for visitors.
And the journey begins……….
Usually people visiting Sri Lanka start their trip from Colombo but mine was unique in a way that I was kidnapped by El Macho and his gang, and transferred directly to Kandy considering the short length of my stay (5 days), and the fact that he traveled all the way from his home at the eastern corner with family, friends (Asvar & Haroon) and their families !!!
The important point here is that Bandaranaike International Airport is not actually in Colombo but in the town of Negombo that is approximately 35 KM (22 miles) away from Colombo and takes almost 45 minutes. You can reach quite smoothly there through Colombo Katunayake Expressway where LKR 600 toll tax is applied. We traveled couple of times on this highway – not at the beginning of the trip – but towards the end with stressed mind due to the time remaining in flight departure because of extreme traffic congestion inside Colombo caused by Vesak celebrations. At that moment this highway was truly a blessing.
Day 1
Our first stop was the town of Kandy – the capital of central province – a well known major city of Sri Lanka, surrounded by hills. Kandy is primarily famous for tea plantation that will come ahead on my journey, but here we stopped beside Bogambara Lake at Kevins Lake View to have some rest and get refreshed. That is where I started to observe Sri Lanka in bright day light, a relatively less busy morning on Saturday beside the lake was a nice experience. It became hot by the time we resumed our journey after a short 3-4 hours break, not knowing the clouds waiting for us over the mountains.
El Macho offered a quick breakfast from a roadside cafeteria.
Our next stop was Nuwara Eliya means “the city on the plains” or “city of light” approximately 3 Hours south from Kandy at an altitude of 1,868m (6,128 ft.).
This place known to be the coolest area in Sri Lanka. On the way we came across a fresh fruits stand to enjoy some fresh coconut water. The views were awesome from there.
As we move forward Nuwara Eliya introduced itself with massive clouds collision triggered heavy rain. We had to stopped nearby a roadside shelter and had opportunity to finish our lunch, my first pure desi Tamil lunch, and later on I became used to it 🙂
Few more beautiful views captured there.
We also visited Ramboda Falls on the way. By that time the rain became pleasant and the beauty of Sri Lanka was at its best.
Our next stop was Labookellie Villa – a hotel and Tea processing plant sits amidst 1300 acres of rolling green landscapes at the Mackwoods Labookeelie Tea Estate. The site offers breathtaking views you cannot afford to miss while in Nuwara Eliya.
Visiting Labookellie Tea Plant was an exciting experience. There are many such places throughout the district can be found, layers of green fields as far as you can see.
Asvar – who became my protocol officer by himself – spoke to the plant staff and ensured that I witness the complete process and get good shots wherever I go. Later on the tour I handed over my Canon 550D to him to satisfy his photography interest. I was happy with my “Note 5” as It is quick and easy to get good photos and share on the go.
Haroon – has proved himself as a professional drivers who can drive attentively and carefully – except on two occasions – First when they picked me from Airport at the beginning and took fuel from the very first petrol station towards Kandy, that’s where he took an immediate turn and the Truck driver coming from opposite direction badly honked us and luckily managed to control his speed. Second occasion was when we were coming back to the Airport at the end of the journey and due to the pressure to reach in time Haroon overtook a vehicle on hard lines and there the traffic police was closely watching and caught us immediately. El Macho then used his social skills to convince police officer to leave us this time as he has to catch flight from Colombo Airport.
By the way I already bought a local dialog connection with sufficient internet package that I had to recharge few times during the trip.
The day ends with few final shots at fresh vegetable stand, followed by cottage hunt for overnight stay at Nuwara Eliya. You will not find proper hotel sign boards, instead you will notice the boards saying “Rooms Available” because people have their homes converted into hotels to make some extra income, however you need to inspect the room carefully as not all of them are perfectly clean but there are plenty of these and you can find a suitable one for you.
This beautifully decorated nice little home was very catchy but the rooms in basement were not at all accommodating so I clearly refused to stay here and El Macho was very kind to arrange a nice and reasonable room nearby.
Day 2
Day #2 started with another special breakfast followed by a boating experience at Lake Gregory, a beautifully situated lake in the middle of green plains.
Later we visited the Strawberry Farms, views of the green plains and windmills were awesome.
Ambewala Farms was next on the list. Though with the discussion of a dairy farm, one obviously thinks of a messy facility and bad smell, but the location of the farm, the management of the facility and overall impressions was very positive. The only place where you cannot afford to stand long is where Rabbits are accommodated. The Farm has a nice cafeteria where we enjoyed fresh Milk and Cheese.
Day #2 started with bright sunshine that transformed into another spell of heavy rain by the time we reached at Rawana Falls near the city of Ella. The plan was to take bath under the falls that we had to cancel considering the rain and cold. However Asfar forced me to go near the fall and take few images and accompanied me with an umbrella. He was just not happy that I leave a place with unsatisfactory feelings. We had our lunch inside the vehicle and that is where I had a debate with El Macho and his friends when they through garbage from the rock. Sometimes we become so ignorant and could not really acknowledge basic civic sense even at such a naturally beautiful place 🙁
Our target was to reach El Macho’s hometown Akkaraipattu before late night. The travel by road in Sri Lanka was a pleasant experience, however you need acknowledge few facts:
- There is only only road (you may call it highway) connecting all major cities and suburbs. It is a two-way road with only two lanes
- The road is used by all sort of vehicles and even pedestrians so drivers have to be extremely careful while overtaking
- The quality of the roads is generally very good. In fact I was surprised how well it is being maintained considering the load of traffic
- The distance may look small but will take more than estimated time due to the fact above and I have personally witnessed it many times during the trip
- There are three types of roads A,B & E with subtypes. You may refer further details on their official Road Development Authority website
- Traffic rules are imposed very well as I never saw even a passenger on the bikes without helmet. Also traffic violations result in high penalties and it is not possible to escape
You will find Cabs only in Colombo and in rest of the country Auto Rickshaw is used as the primary means of transportation. The new model has two headlights as compare to the older one with only one headlight (can be seen in background).
The day ended with Kothu Parotta meal we bought from an outside restaurant.
Day 3
Day #3 started from Akkaraipattu – a small town with population clearly segregated based on religion. El Macho is the authority there (as he claims).
We had our morning breakfast (Idiyappam and Omelette) at nearby beach site among a huge crowd of Crows.
El Macho offered me this strange fruit called Panamaram but I could not convinced myself to eat, though he said it is very useful for Kidney trouble as it will be cured within days.
Our destination was Arugam Bay a famous surfing spot offers quality surf breaks. Arugam Bay is one the most famous site in Sri Lanka for western tourists as you find peaceful beaches, surfing, partying, and do-nothing opportunities at the same place. You can rent an auto (Scooty) and roam around the town and feel truly relaxed.
As usual, Asfar was with me all the time to ensure I capture the bay from different angles and do not have any trouble in taking solo pictures. He assisted me very well throughout the journey. Enjoy the Arugam Bay…………. And remember it was the hottest day of our trip that we could not afford to go anywhere else.
Now I realized why people with white skin preferred Arugam Bay to get tanned, as my brown skin got darker and even after two months I can feel the difference.
Capture this view on the way back
Bought fresh fish while coming back home and enjoyed a home made Fried and Curry Fish. It was very tasty.
In the evening we had a drive behind El Macho’s home that is all agriculture land with beautiful – in fact – breathtaking views. I enjoyed driving the Hi-Ace Van and observed few Snakes on the road as it was all jungle where I could have had a hunting experience but time did not permit us.
Day 4
Day #4 activities included visit to Marble Beach, Kanniya Hot Springs, Koneswaram temple, and above all the in-laws of El Macho – a place no married men can escape ever in life 🙂
All these places are in Trincomalee a major city and district in North Eastern Sri Lanka.
As usual, the day started with a rich breakfast at a local restaurant on the way to Batticaloa another major city as well as a district of eastern Sri Lanka.
Marble Beach also known as Air Force Resort as it is being maintained by air force authorities. The place is quiet and peaceful with few resorts around. Water is shallow and clear. We could not afford to swim as the planned journey for the day was challenging and we had to cover many places as mentioned above.
This Buddhist Temple at Marble Beach caught my attention
Before visiting Kanniya Hot Spring, we stopped by El Macho’s in-laws residence where a lavish seafood treat was waiting for us. Unfortunately – most of the items (Prawns, Crabs) was not something I could easily digest so he requested to have Fish as well, though I couldn’t recognize which type of Fish was that 🙁 later came to know it was actually Mussels.
Kanniya Hot Spring is a collection of seven wells 3-4 feet deep having variety in temperature (as claimed), though they were all hot to me. This place has a history as old as 5000 BC. The water is considered as curing for skin diseases and also from religious perspective. Change rooms are provided at site to avail the opportunity to take bath. We just settled on washing our feet.
Another temple caught my attention behind the place.
The next tourist attraction was the second unique place of Sri Lanka I visited (first one will come at the end). The Koneswaram Temple. A strategically located Hindu Temple offers great long-range and bird eye view of the Indian Ocean. This temple is a sacred place for Hindus and you have to visit barefoot. On the way to the entrance you will find souvenir and refreshment shops both sides.
Just before the main entrance a place is called Lovers’ Leap used for desperate suicide attempts by lovers.
As soon as you enter inside the main boundry the huge statue welcomes you
There is a whole history in the form of statues and seems really important for the followers of Hindu religion.
As we almost finished the tour of the temple, it was almost sunset when the temple bells started ringing loudly, soon combined with the live music started from inner side of the temple. Sunset – Bells – Religious Music – All this triggered strange feelings that I could not figure our and decided to move out.
Day #4 was long and tedious and I just wanted to go to bed. El Macho and his gang stayed at their family house where as he arranged a very beautiful room nearby (place to be identified). By this day I started missing my family and just wanted to spend one more day somehow to catch the flight back home.
It was 10th of May and Vesak preparations at its peak. Coming back from the temple we observed construction of decorated statues of different shapes and heights that reminds me of Muharram and Rabi’ al-awwal activities in Pakistan. It seems true that Religions become indifferent when they are limited to celebrating festivals 🙁
Day 5
Day #5 was unique in a way that we travel much more than we thought of. Our plan was to cover Sigiriya an ancient rock fortress located near the town of Dambulla in the Central Province. El Macho warned that this place will need several hours to cover but I did not take it seriously and realized later.
We started in the morning taking pictures beside a lagoon – I believe it was the site of Kantale Dam where I spotted a pair of beautiful Fish Eagles on the hunt, but could not stay to watch longer as we had to move further.
An Asian Water Monitor was also spotted on the road.
On the way we came across Habarana railway station where the train speed is 25km/h and wire protection can be seen to avoid elephant crossing.
In addition to Sigiriya, we wanted to cover a short Safari at Minneriya National Park or Wasgamuwa National Park and we negotiated with a jeep owner while having breakfast (Beef Rolls and Ulundu Vadai) at a roadside restaurant.
Turn towards Sigiriya was beautiful where I enjoyed boiled corns and marked suspected elephant walkway
Sigiriya is one of the most amazing places I have ever visited, a fortress built on the top of the rock by King Kasyapa (477 – 495 CE) with decorated sides with colorful frescoes and a gateway in the form of an enormous lion. Sigiriya today is a UNESCO listed World Heritage Site. It is one of the best preserved examples of ancient urban planning.
With all these details you can imagine my curiosity and excitement to visit the site. However it was proved to be the worst time to visit such an ancient treasure as due to the Vesak holiday whole of the country (it seemed) came out to visit the site that made it impossible for us to cover in detail.
To visit the official site of Sigiriya click here. The ticket for locals is Rs 50 (0.33 USD) whereas for the foreigners it is USD 30 (4500 Rs). El Macho bought my ticket along with other family members without knowing that it costs much more. Later, the ticket checker inside Museum spotted me and asked to show the ID to prove that I am not a foreigner that obviously we could not furnish, hence had to buy a new and expensive ticket 🙁 that we could not avail due to the crowd waiting for us ahead.
The best picture of Sigiriya I could capture was the portrait below that I found inside the Museum, offering a bird eye view of complete site.
Few other site information pictures for reference:
After finishing from Museum when we came out we saw a huge queue where people waiting for their turn to visit the upper site of the fortress.
That’s where we discussed and decided to leave our expedition in the middle and make our final journey towards Colombo Airport as by this time we have actually realized that it is going to take more hours than under normal circumstances. As I mentioned earlier, the distances in Sri Lanka seem shorter but due to the only connecting road it takes more time, and this time the Vesak celebrations doubled the impact and we just gave up on Safari or any other thing.
Before leaving Sigiriya I requested El Macho and his friends to have few group photos as I knew we will not be having a chance later. Below is the best memorable photo we had towards the end of the trip.
We left from Sigiriya at around 2:30 PM in the afternoon of 11th May and my flight time was 4:30 AM on 12th May. The distance is approx. 160 KM that takes max. 4 hours normally (if you see on google). However roads were extremely crowded that we managed to reach Colombo at 12 midnight and situation was even worse in the city. El Macho forgot some of his stuff back home and he managed to get it delivered to Colombo by one of his friends, so we had to enter the city to collect it and got stuck in traffic. Before entering in the city I requested my hosts to accept the dinner offer with me as I thought it is the least I can do as a token of thanks, but they way it all happened we all forgot about the dinner and just wanted to reach to the airport on time.
That’s why I mentioned in the beginning that Colombo Katunayake Expressway was a blessing for us and by 2 AM we were able to reach to the same parking place from where these folks received me six days back. We just could not realize how fast the time has passed. After quickly having some snacks from nearby shop, I just wanted to say good bye to all of them but El Macho was not in hurry as for me it is time to go to my family whereas for him it was the time to go away from his family for another long span of time. He is having detail discussion with his friends and family, and giving them instructions regarding family matters and his under-construction home. Finally I just could not stop myself to intervene and he also realized my stress considering only two hours remaining in departure.
On the way I was able to grab few sovenirs from the Airport. A wooden asian elephant (the quality was impressive), off-ourse a Mug for my office, and few Keychains and Magnets that did not cost too much.
In Summary, though I could not explore a lot of the Sri Lanka but the memories were awesome, and it improved my comfort level with the place that will surely help me in future expedition. I promised El Macho to come again and this time it will be only me and him with an all-out adventurous journey of the beautiful Sri Lanka.
Note: Please feel free to ask any questions in comments or email me at sfahmed@yahoo.com